Perfumer’s word: Bruno Jovanovic
par Essential Parfums|
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Bruno JovanovicPerfumer of Mon VetiverXEssential Parfums |
What is your best olfactory memory ?
My mother has always loved perfumes, I think she passed on this passion to me when I was young! She had plenty of them on her dresser, including magnificent classics such as Rive Gauche, Cabochard etc. Till today, my creations are influenced by these floral, chypre and citrus notes.
For you a perfume is …
A signature, especially for the person who wears it.
Do you wear perfume ? If yes which one ?
I do not wear perfume when I’m working, I do not want the smell to interfere with my compositions ! But when I’m not working, I wear my latest tests, it’s a good critical exercise to wear your creations, to see how they evolve over time.
As a perfumer, what are you the most proud of ?
My very first perfume, Fierce for Abercrombie&Fitch, co-created with Christopher Laudamiel and Carlos Benaim is now considered a classic! The three of us are even prouder today of our creation than we were in 2004 when it was first released. During my career, I was lucky enough to have been chosen by beautiful brands, among which Frederic Malle, Hugo Boss, Armani, Paco Rabanne, Rochas and so many others, who trusted me to create their fragrances. I am so thankful to the designers of these beautiful houses for giving me the opportunity to express myself.
What is the biggest difficulty as a perfumer ?
I would say that the hardest thing is to last. Being a perfumer is not an easy daily job and it is important to have enough resilience. We have to deal with everything we are asked, from regulatory requirements to the wishes of all interlocutors. To have a career that lasts, we have to work on remaining relevant, follow market trends while adding a personal touch.
You lived for a long time in the USA, what would for you be the olfactory disparity between the American and European market ?
There are fewer and fewer. We are facing a real globalization of perfumery, once-regional markets are increasingly influencing each other. Afterwards, it’s true that in the United States, people are less traditional when it comes to perfume, as they allow themselves more fantasy. In the United Sates, perfume isn’t only about feeling good and sexy. We will find simpler notes diffusing a lot of pleasure and that are impactful. Americans assume fruity perfumes, clean smells and are not afraid to make their signature. In France, we would tend to compose a fruity perfume on a chypre structure to make it more chic. In the United States, there is less conventions: the idea is to try. We break the rules of classic perfumery to dare new ideas.
What would you like to bring to the European market from the American one, and vice versa ?
I would bring the unbridled, liberated dimension of the American market to the French market. On the other hand, the more statutory aspect of the European market to the American one.
Do you think that brand restrictions on naturalness percentage is a trend that will last ?
This is a very current trend corresponding to consumer demand; it has set in for a few years and it seems to last. Naturalness brings roundness, pretty stories, but it must not invade on perfumer’s creativity and should not limit him. When I create, my goal is that my perfume provides pleasure and smells good. I try to integrate natural ingredients into my formulas with accuracy. They should not be used as a trick or to please marketing. They have to find a relevant place, create desire and an addictive touch. Naturalness must make sense.
How do allergens impact your creations?
There is a huge impact ! But this is a good thing because it challenges creation, and we have to adapt to this new way of working. This is part of a massive trend of society change. But we have to be careful, because of all this new awareness, there is a risk of falling into extremes. It shouldn’t go too far. The most important is to maintain a balance between protecting the consumer and preserve creation of course.